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Travel notes from Tunisia
Djerba: special travel Notes for Djerba: Direct access One week stay in Tunis, 3 days in Sousse and 3 days in Hammamet. The reportage was limited to the northern half of Tunisia with the intention of later realizing a video on the country.
Although the avenue has a cleaner aspect, it has lost what gave it charm and to us the desire of strolling aimlessly under the bougainvilleas: now the central seems very large and a lot less welcoming!
Others have been given 2 tram tracks and are completely disfigured; such is the case of the avenue Fahrat Hached (the former rue du Portugal) or the rue de Lyon: with two tacks there is practically no room left for cars and the sidewalks are not any larger for that the avenue Fahrat Hached is lifeless: almost without shops and with the incessant noise of the passing tram.
One thing that characterizes Tunis is the unity of its’ small streets, along which are buildings with magnificent finely-worked facades with pretty balconies; unfortunately these buildings are not well kept up and most are run down; one has the impression that Tunisia has chosen to build anew (Belvédère, the sector of the Ministries) rather than look after those old building which are nevertheless part of the heritage of the country. Investments in hotel residences remain very high; the tourist zones are constantly expanding, the older hotels often rebuilt.
Try to get away from the most frequented streets (the climb towards the café des Nattes, then the street that leads to the café Dar Chebanne): there are numerous small, colourful streets where one can see (in particular) lovely porches, typical of Tunisia. You needn’t stop too long at the café des Nattes but head towards the Café Dar Chebanne, just as old and genuine as the other and whose terrace overlooking the golf of Tunis gives a simply fabulous view and is most propitious for day-dreaming, if too many people are not already there.
The other specialty of Nabeul is the market, held every Friday morning. Big open-skied market, it attracts a lot of people; numerous tourist shops, but also many shops for the local population. One still hears talk concerning the camel market (in fact dromedaries), but it is now limited to a few sheep and chickens!! Between Hammamet, Yasmine Hammamet (the new resort South of Hammamet) and Nabeul (which now touches Hammamet), there are nearly 170 hotels …it is the biggest hotel zone of Tunisia followed by Sousse (160 hotels) and Djerba (140 hotels).
Relatively well kept up; in particular true of the Capitole with its’ beautiful golden sheen dominating the whole, the Licinien’s thermal baths remain very impressive, as is also the big theatre that greets us just besides the parking lot; its’ 3 500 seats lets our imagination wander to what could have been the importance of Dougga in this flat open country now half deserted … 4th holy city of Islam after Mecca, Medina and Jerusalem. A must, if only to see the big Mosque and the Mosque of “Barbier”. Numerous “guides”, working on motor-cycles, are on the look out for isolated tourists; they are often very insistent and will take you where they want and divert you from the more important places! It is best to drop by the tourist office, just in front of the Bassin des Aghlabides, which sells the official ticket allowing you to visit all the monuments of Kairouan; in front of the tourist office, a big map of the city can be most useful to find yourself …. Important fishing port, for years Mahdia remained removed from any tourist development. This seems to have ended: a tourist zone is beginning to be implanted!
Hotels El Hana International 5*
Different types of comfort (according to the different floors); last floor under repair. Standard, large and comfortable bedroom; perfect cleanliness; bath room: everything is working normally fridge available (but empty!) Small screen TV: somewhat of a nuisance, especially to view from the bed (too far); limited number of channels the elevators work but are a little wheezy...
Orientation: Choice of bedroom overlooking the Avenue Bourguiba or behind overlooking the parking. The “avenue” side allows for a magnificent view on the large Tunisian main road, the opportunity of feeling part of (from afar) the Tunisian life, as well as of taking nice pictures. The noise is not too intense at night …but it is still better to sleep with the windows shut (no double windows); during warm periods of the year you’ll appreciate the AC more if they are closed! In any case, behind the hotel, the avenue de Paris also generates noise and more so because of the tram: it runs on the avenue de Paris! All things considered, the avenue Bourguiba is a better choice. Added to the fact of its’ exceptional situation for visiting the city, the quality/price ratio is quite good. For more info: The Residence Tunis 5*
In front of The Residence, a golf course is beeing created from... desert ! The Residence Tunis is arabo-andalous style and fits perfectly in the environment; architecture is very sober. When you get in the lobby, the first impression is a great simplicity: nearly bare walls only emphasized by subdued lights: a real touch of elegance ! Splendid high level thalasso: personalized high quality program determined during a visit with the resident doctor. Elegant setting and sumptuous swimming pool. The Residence Tunis is one of the best 5 star hotels in Tunisia. Strongly recommended by MM Video for an exceptional stay, only 2 flight-hours from Paris. For more info :
Despite the age of the hotel, the rooms are big with king sized beds (square bed of 2m) Living room area, terrace, and bar-fridge (filled) Old style bathroom (bidet); white earthenware tiles, white bathtub, old style taps; hair-dryer but no bathrobe.
Restaurant (1/2 board= Scheherazade): very big, high ceiling and impersonal; unpleasant lighting and atmosphere;
Essentially German clientele. Calm rooms. Recommended by Odegam and Michelin, but not by MM Video!! Hotel Hasdrubal Thalassa & Spa 4*
Average sized bedrooms; very well decorated (colours, lighting, fabrics…) bar-fridge complete and refilled each day.;
International clientele (German, English, French…) http://www.hasdrubal-hotel.com/french/kantaoui/presentation.asp
In front of the newspaper house “La Presse” Complicated decoration, a mixture of several styles (Moorish, Andalusian and ...Egyptian!) On the same street as the Orient, 30 m further on; pleasant Moorish facade; restaurant on the 1st floor: dining room a deception when compared to the entrance. Very complete and varied menu; prices comparable to the Orient. Bolero
Alongside the Café de Paris: restaurant on the 1st floor Nice view on the avenue Bourguiba: try to be given a table by the window Simple and inexpensive restaurant (can be compared to the Carcassonne)
Very pleasant welcome; the Hispano-Moorish decoration is nice; the service fast and efficient Rather complete menu with very good quality fish; a number of local and typical dishes. International clientele.
Very old house in Tunis (opened in 1935!) The decoration attests to this: autographed photos on the wall of well known artists and others who once frequented the restaurant: Tino Rossi, Michèle Morgan….
For more information:
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The avenue was completely reorganized during the Mediterranean Games in 2001. At which time, all the newspaper stands, bookstands and other flower stands were driven from the centre divider strip; only the flower stands were able to reopen but all the way towards the bottoms of the avenue, near the TGM, thus on the outside of the central strip.
The construction of the subway (here in fact a tram, as digging was made impossible by the lagoon) certainly was an improvement in the daily life of the Tunisian, but it has defaced a number of streets; some such as the rue de Paris, the rue de Carthage or the rue de Hollande, which were all busy shopping streets and so very lively, now have a tram track running down them and have lost much of their appeal.
Icon of Tunisia, an obligatory passage for all tourists who come to Tunisia.
Nabeul distinguishes itself by its pottery making: if you’re interested in buying pottery, this is where you’ll find the best in Tunisia.
It is the ‘best’ Roman architectural site in all of Tunisia: if you’re going to see one, this has to be the one. 
Kairouan 
On arriving at El Djem, one can see the outline of the amphitheatre far off on the horizon of this half deserted flat country: how could such an impressive construction have been built in this desert? It is said that there once was a city (Thysdrus) here, a very rich city thanks to the olive trees and inhabited by some 40.000 people during Roman times. In fact, the entire city could gather in this amphitheatre as it could hold up to 45.0000 people! By its’ size it’s the 3rd theatre of all the Roman Empire: once inside, let your mind wander: you are watching a gladiator fight, the very one in Rideley Scott’s Gladiator! Can’t miss that! 
Perfect central location: Avenue Bourguiba (corner of Avenue de Paris).
Parking lot behind the hotel, direct access (car entrance on the avenue of Paris): free parking for clients of the hotel: efficiency and niceness of personnel managing the parking area. 2nd entresol restaurant, a little gloomy: to frequent only for breakfast. Pleasant breakfast: only remark concerns the eggs, which kept warm in warm water end up having jelly-like aspect.
The Residence Tunis is a member of the exclusive chain "The Leading Hotels of the World"; only 2 hotels in Tunisia belong to this chain: the Hasdrubal Thalassa & Spa in Hammamet and The Residence. 
Some years ago, this area was still almost desert; since then it benefits by many real-estate investments with many and luxurious hotels, residences or casinos...
In the main restaurant, l’Olivier, clients are welcomed and seated in different small charming lounges or in the outside patio. Daily events with specific themes (Tunisia, Italy, seafood for example…).
Very good cooking served by skilled staff as expected in high level hotels. The swimming pool restaurant offers snack cooking.
1st generation hotel 1966 (partially renovated in 1998); consequently close to the centre of Hammamet: short (½ hour) walk by the beach; practical location, both to go out and to visit Hammamet.
For breakfast, restaurant on the beach. Very small beach; not well tended; uneasy access (due to beach restaurant and the suites); mattresses and deckchairs in doubtful state. Nice pool close to the bar. Health centre with big pool (not tested).
Hotel averagely busy: some 70/80 guests for 145 rooms. Uneven upkeep: certain areas are not in good shape (garden, tennis) 
Relatively old hotel but well kept up. Pleasant and not ostentatious.
Restaurant ½ board: nice dining room with different levels; nice decoration 
This hotel claims an ISO (BVQI) certification and it shows : 
The former “Carcassonnais”, well known formerly for its’ very copious “khémias” (you’ll find photographs behind the bar for the nostalgic amongst you) Simple, good and very cheap; fast service. Simple menu (Tunisian and international cooking) Many tourists amongst the clientele. No alcohol (no wine, no aperitif) 
Very old restaurant, opened in the 60s. At the time, the restaurant was simple and cheap: a meal (starters+main dish+dessert) cost 0,300 dinars! The restaurant has stayed the same, both inside and out.
