An island of the northern Caribbean, separated in two: French in the north and Dutch in the south. The French zone is entirely different from Guadeloupe or Martinique. As to the Dutch area, it is more American in style than it is Dutch. The separation between the two zones is totally theoretical: there is no effective boarder; nevertheless, there are two separate administrations, 2 currencies and 2 languages.
Both zones are very Americanised : life styles (restaurants in the Dutch zone, hamburgers), money (dollar) and numerous monstrous 4-wheel drives. The entire island is under a special fiscal status (no VAT); given the costs of supplying the island, this is mainly felt on expensive products, resulting in numerous luxury shops on the island (in particular jewellers, luxury clothing shops...) at first glance there are deals to be made in jewellery (a lot of white 14-carat gold).
But be careful, it’s a little bit like the souks of North Africa… no prices are displayed, it is absolutely necessary to bargain… but not difficult to have the prices divided by 3 or 4 ! However, as concerns rum, although there are a few shops, there is little choice and nothing really comparable to Martinique.
Southern zone
Dutch Attached administratively to the Dutch Antilles, Aruba, Bonaire and Curacao, with a central government in Curacao; zone of industrial, commercial and port activities. Capital: Philipsburg 34 km2 population 41.000 Currency: US dollar; languages: Creole, French and English.
Northern Zone
French Attached administratively to the Guadeloupe as is the case of St Bart, as well as the Saintes and Marie Galante. Touristic zone (restaurants, hotels) as well as residential (Basses terres) Capital: Marigot 52 km2 population 36.000 Currency: euro but the dollar is accepted everywhere (be careful, often the euro/dollar is exchanged at parity); language: Creole, English; a lot of people do not speak French in the Dutch zone.
Climat
The locals confirm that the best time of the year to visit St Martin is from March to June (sparse rain and not too hot..).
Population
Real local melting-pot, including immigrants from all the surrounding Caribbean islands (60% of the population are foreigners); the island hosts 80 nationalities amongst which 40% from Haiti, 20% originating from Dominique, 14% from the Dominican Republic… Also a sizable illegal immigrant population (attracted by the duel nationality of the island). There follows a certain insecurity, but this is not a problem to the tourist as long as "trouble spots" are avoided.
Tourism
Completely different from tourism in the French Antilles. Here, tourism is rather elitist with up-market hotel standards. The clientele is essentially North American (USA, Canada), even in the French Zone.
St Martin (Philipsburg) is an obligatory stop for the huge American liners cruising the Caribbean; these regularly unload a regular and impressive number of tourists….
Starting from the western part of the French zone:
Terres Basses ( Low Lands)
The most residential area of the island: here are found the most beautiful villas overlooking the sea situated along the rugged coast of the Pointe du Canonnier (Gunner’s Point) All of these villas are surrounded by high walls and are well guarded; peeking through an unclosed gate, one can glimpse at the inside of these properties and get an idea of the luxury lavished on their construction. It is in this very privileged area that is situated the hotel Samana, the most beautiful hotel of the island.
Baie Nettlé (Nettle Bay)
Following the coast, we arrive at Bay Nettle, a kind of lagoon wedged in-between the sea and Simpson Bay Lagoon, the large interior lake of the island; it is a touristic area where fine hotels (Flamboyant, Mercure…) are situated.
Marigot
Further along, one arrives at Sandy Ground, a sort of “popular” suburb of Marigot whose particularity is a drawbridge allowing boats to pass between the Simpson Bay Lagoon and the sea. Careful, one can easily be held up 30 minutes by the closing of the bridge (without speaking of the traffic jams…) look into the time schedules for the opening of the bridge if called upon to travel in this area).
Further along, Marigot: small town with numerous restaurants and chic shops 2 marinas: Port Marina and Royal Marina, both at the extremity of Simpson Lagoon Bay. The Royal Marina is a pleasant spot with numerous restaurants lining the wharf, and where are moored magnificent boats; don’t miss the sunsets along the wharf; however, the atmosphere is somewhat artificial and very “touristy”.
In Marigot, don’t miss the fruit, vegetable, spice and fish market, Wednesdays and Saturdays on the shore. Depending on the day, it is not easy to park in Marigot, (especially true on market days): it is recommended to park at the entrance of the town when coming from Sandy Ground, along the sea shore, level with the cemetery.
Grand Case (Big Hut)
Old fishing village 2nd airport of the island (that of the French zone) ; it is not accessible to long haul planes. Restaurants have a good reputation but were unfortunately not tested !
Video: St Marteen, the french area
Anse Marcel (Marcel’s
Cove)
Fine hotels situated in a magnificent cove nestled in a corner of a very steep coast.
Grandes Cayes et Cul de Sac (Big Cayes and Dead End)
Very wild bays in the north of the island; presently under extensive development. Rugged coastline; beautiful landscapes facing the small island of Pinel.
Baie Orientale (Eastern Bay)
The biggest beach of the island. Very developed tourist zone, in a way, the "jet set spot" of the island. Rather artificial, only tourists, recommended only to those who are unconditionally after the "jet set type" of holidays. What’s more, the zone is completely out of the way: to avoid if one wishes to drive around with ease on the island. Galion Nice bay with few visitors.
Dutch zone, starting from the east :
Oyster Pond
The Dutch zone starts at Oyster Pond, which is in fact a small but very nice marina.
Philipsburg
More to the south, the coast offers no particular point of interest and one can cut directly towards Philipsburg. Beyond the port where the big American cruise liners stop, we reach Philipsburg.
In fact, we are dealing with two streets parallel to the sea:
- Front Street is a narrow street (one way); many shops, practically all jewellers… here and there are openings towards the sea, beautiful views on the bay and on the boats moored along the wharf.
- a little further from the sea, Back Street offers a totally different, more genuine but poorer aspect.
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Video: St Marteen, the Dutch area
Cole Bay Hill
Head back towards the airport passing through Cole Bay Hill (normal road) for the magnificent view on the entire western point of the island. Airport Further along, built in 1943 by the Americans on the lagoon wedged in between the sea and Simpson Bay Lagoon, is the airport and its’ impressive runway; given the traffic on a never-ending rise, a new terminal is being completed; to be opened shortly, this should ease the transit in St Martin.
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Video: The flight from St Martin to St Barth
The flight to St Barth
A short flight of 15 minutes which reserves sumptuous landscapes but with a special landing at St Barth: just between a small hill and the sea: but don't worry: pilots are used to it...
Just look at the video to have an idea (sorry, but comments are in french...)
The Flamboyant Hotel
4 star hotel situated in Nettle Bay on the lagoon separating the sea and Simpson Bay Colonial in style, it faces the bay.
231 spacious rooms and suites distributed among 3-level buildings nestled in a tropical garden; each room disposes of a large covered terrace. Very complete kitchen corner on each terrace TV: satellite reception, but in actuality there are few channels and reception is of low quality - but this is not really a problem!
Very quiet and well kept hotel (clean rooms).
White sand beach on the lagoon: not as pleasant as on the sea and what’s more swimming demands a maximum of attention as concerns where one puts one’s feet…
Quiet beach: few people (lounge chairs available at all times) beach towel in each room.
2 restaurants :
- The Terrasse beach restaurant for both breakfast and diner excellent and very complete buffet breakfasts large choice of Viennese bread and buns and delicatessen products several coffee distributors also proposing "espresso" egg based dishes available
- Snack Ti-Case also on the beach for a light lunch.
Internet: a PC is available at the reception; works with a card purchased at the reception; however the system was down during our stay. Car rental (necessary) at hotel: more practical, vehicle in good shape, good rates:
example Jeep Wrangler, automatic, practically new, 378 euros for 7 days, in other words 58 euros per day all included.
Well situated hotel close to Marigot (3km) and on the road to Philipsburg as well as the airport. Close-by (100 meters), a small shopping centre with in particular a supermarket (ideal if one wished to fix meals in the hotel room), a newspaper stand and a cyber café, as well as several restaurants, all varied in style.
In front of the hotel Flamboyant, on the sea Nice hotel disposing of dining tables directly on the beach.
Particularly recommended for dining with the background music of the sea (really very pleasant).
Make reservations or come early as there are few tables by the sea.
French and Creole cooking.
Warm welcome: a restaurant where one quickly becomes a regular customer.
Parking.
Example of menu:
2 Ti-punch 1 Mahi-mahi (a kind of daurade): local fish tasting like sea bream 1 Chatrou (Antillian octopus) 1/2 Sancerre 35 euros Recommended.
Madinina (Nettle Bay)
Also close to the Flamboyant, but on the side of the road! (somewhat loud)... not as poetic as the preceding one Restaurant of the Martinique Friendly, good atmosphere
Example of menu:
2 Vivaneau (excellent local fish) washed down with a Chardonnay (white Burgundy) 47 euros
Chanteclair (Marigot, Marina Royale)
The best restaurant in Marigot. Situated on the Royal Marina, it is impossible to miss: successfully decorated in yellow and bleu colours that immediately attract the eye French cooking with a very complete and original menu well highlighted by lobster and Foie Gras (Goose or Duck Liver). It goes without saying that the rates are those of a gastronomic restaurant but these turn out to be totally justified.
Example of menu:
2 "special lobster" including starters based on lobster, grilled lobster, the famous "unforgettable" desert which is indeed excellent and 1 Pouilly fumé: 130 euros.
Comments:
In Marigot, we did not find that the "Vie en Rose" and the "L’Oizeau Rare" were very attractive: thus, they weren’t tested.
In any case, if you go looking for a restaurant, avoid (absolutely!) the Dutch zone .