Travel notes on St Barth

General Information

Saint Barth is attached administratively to the Guadeloupe, but is in fact a totally different island. Here we have reached paradise, as imagined by man….
As one sets foot in the airport terminal, it is immediately clear that hereon all is luxury, calm and serenity. The authorities of Saint Barth have made a deliberate choice of controlling the development of their tourism by controlling the influx of tourists and by choosing systematically to attract an up-market clientele:
- limitation of the air links due to the extreme shortness of the landing strip that can only accept small planes
- limitation of sea links, including both regular traffic with the other islands as well as the anchoring of big cruise liners
- systematic orientation of the hotel industry towards small structures limited to under 20 bedrooms offering luxury service and accommodations.

Given this very privileged environment, numerous personalities were tempted to build magnificent villas to which they could retreat and so benefit from the tranquillity and discretion that the island assures.
Some have thus defined St Barth as the St Tropez of the Caribbean: this is untrue for the simple reason that VIPs go to St Tropez to be seen, whereas in St Barth there is no one to see them.

The island also has a very special fiscal policy: here there are no direct or indirect taxes; instead, one finds only a few specific taxes such as the right of dock (4%), a sea toll and an additional tax on fuel and derivatives: needless to say this is a real encouragement for those wishing to start a business on the island!

Population:
some 8.700 inhabitants of which half are of island stock. Originally, St Bart was populated by immigrants from Normandy and Brittany; the Swedish occupation did nothing to modify this given. The dryness, the inhospitality of the island and, later, the high cost of living, dissuaded new populations from establishing themselves on this rocky and arid island.

Since the 1970’s, St Barth developed considerably; numerous French metropolitans arrived tempted to abandon their city life in the French metropolis and start a new on this paradisiacal island. Many came to open a hotel or a restaurant or to start luxury boutiques (clothing, art galleries…) without forgetting the activities linked to the sea such as boat rentals, cruise organisation, diving...

The tourist population is mainly North-American but there are also French tourists, due in particular to the favourable euro/dollar exchange rate.
In bygone days, the queen of cars on the island was the famous Mini Moke; there are still a few around… but, due to their age, few in very good shape; now days, one rides in small 4x4s like the Suzuki Samouraï or Jimny: these are practically the only cars one will see!

In order to meet the demand for these and avoid running out of cars, rentals have invested in so many of them that traffic has become somewhat difficult (although all is relative!) and parking a delicate operation, at least in Gustavia or St Jean. A number of locals have complained and the Major, having decided that there are too many rental cars, is thinking of asking the car rentals to lower their number.

For more info on St Barth:
www.st-barths.com  Complete site (french/english)
www.saint-barths.com  All the restaurants of the island (french/english)
www.sbhonline.com  Very complete site
www.stbartstalk.com  A site devoted to St Barth by Greg, an american guy with a passion for St Barth.
www.caribbean-on-line.com/st-barts   The chapter devoted to St Barth in this comprehensive site on the Caribbean Islands
http://stbarthobserver.com   An american blog fully devoted to St Barth.

The flight from St Martin to St Barth

If St Barth’s airport is an efficient way of avoiding mass tourism for the island, it still remains an attraction in itself. Indeed, the runway, very short, requires special training of the pilot: every pilot must obtain a special certification to be authorised to land on St Barth.

One landing ended on the beach (April 1992)

The landing strip is wedged in between the sea and a hill on top of which is a road; a strong wind blows at the summit of the hill, which the planes must nevertheless skim in order to attack the strip as early as possible.

If the plane doesn’t land quickly enough, it will unfortunately finish its course on the beach separating the end of the runway and the sea. Only planes of less than 20 seats can land here and only by day as the strip is not lighted….

But no need to panic, dozens of landings take place every day without any problems!

Tour of the Island

Gustavia
Administrative capital of the island. It has been undergoing rapid development for the last 30 years. Its’ very sheltered harbour is a port of call for numerous yachts, without forgetting those that remain moored in the bay of Gustavia, well sheltered from the winds. Gustavia offers the opportunity of seeing magnificent boats. A number of old houses have left a trace of the past, and in particular a Swedish past. Numerous high-end stores. Very lively city, in particular in the evening.

St Jean
The setting of the bay of St Jean is magnificent; its’ beach is very beautiful; it was the first city to be developed on St Barth; this is where the first hotel, the Eden Rock, was built, on a rock in the middle of the bay. Numerous restaurants have since then opened, hotels and villas, all of which has taken away some of its’ wild aspect which it still had kept in the early 90s; in particular, access to the beach is now limited to a few narrow passages, numerous luxury establishments having set themselves up directly on the beach.

Lorient
After St Jean, the road, which is very steep, continues on to Lorient, name of a city in France’s Brittany, confirming if need be the origins of the inhabitants of St Barth; its’ big beach and clear water enjoys fine rollers well appreciated by surfers.

Marigot and Cul de Sac (Dead End)
Further on, one arrives on the windy coast of Marigot, then Big and Small Cul de Sac; this area is still very wild and practically barren… beautiful bays follow rocky points: the scenery is breathtaking, the road very tortured.

Grande saline
South, after the old salt marshes exploited by the St Barths, is the magnificent beach of Grande Saline; the car must be left on a parking lot and one must walk a short ways before discovering this immense white sand beach where there are also fine rollers. Despite the fact that it is out of the way, this beach is much frequented and the parking is limited; it is recommended to go there in the morning if you wish to spend the day.

Anse du Gouverneur
Another beautiful white sand beach, very frequented.

Anse des Flamands and Pointe Colombier (Cove of the Flemish and Dovecote Point)
The north-western point of the island, very steep, dotted with coves and bays each more welcoming than the other.

Restaurant Au Port

Its’ name is "Au Port" (at the port): it is the oldest restaurant in Gustavia; situated at the end of the port facing the post office.
Actually, here one says that we’re going "to George’s"; Georges Valenti is the chef of this restaurant and everyone in St Barth knows him. George ran a restaurant in the Lubéron (France) but was looking for a change of atmosphere and of pace; he settled on this paradisiacal island at a time when it was not much frequented but already benefiting from appreciable tax advantages.

As soon as he opened in St Barth, George proposed a gastronomic “cuisine” both French and Creole but, contrary to many on the island, he maintained a kindness and simplicity that totally charm his clientele: from the first visit in this restaurant, one feels a little at home. The decoration of the restaurant is a warm mixture of Creole and Provence; on the walls are hung paintings of Thierry Miramon, a painter of Marseilles, made specially for his friend George and representing scenes with George as a subject.

And what can one say about the "reception-bar corner" a pure delight of colours and friendliness. You have understood that this address is a must in St Barth for those who wish to dine in a friendly and warm atmosphere.

But careful: Georges admitted that restaurants, even in St Barth, are a tough job: he now wants to go back to France and travel quietly, his turn in a way of taking a well deserved vacation. His restaurant is going to be up for sale and there will plenty of willing souls who want to takeover.

Georges Valenti

Example of a menu:
2 accras (cod), 1 poêlée of gambas, 1 "bourride" (cod),
2 ginger mousses and 1 bottle of Rully total : 130 euros.

The restaurant is on the 1st floor; terrace opened onto the port. Make reservation for a table on the terrace: very pleasant.

Restaurant Au Port
Rue Samuel Falberg - Gustavia
Tel: 0590 27 62 36
E-mail: auportrestaurant@wanadoo.fr
opened only in the evening (closed Sundays)

The other restaurants

There are of course many other restaurants in St Barth; we were able to test only a very few. It’s always tempting to return to those that we’ve appreciated.

The Repaire

Actually the real name of this restaurant is "the hideout of rebels and immigrants" (sic).
At the entrance of Gustavia, arriving from St Jean.
Warm welcome; both the "cuisines" and clientele are international.
Efficient and quick service but nothing really captivating.

Example of menu:
- accras (too soft, not sufficiently cooked… heavy)
- brochettes of gambas (more shrimps than "gambas")
- gourmet salade - pitcher of Côtes du Rhône (50cl)
total: 60 euros

To consider only if nothing else is available.
 
Rue de la République - Gustavia
Tel: 0590 27 72 48
Closed on Sunday

The Sapotillier

Another well known restaurant of Gustavia; set up in an old Creole hut as well as in the adjoining patio (for those who wish to dine in the open). Traditional French cuisine, good quality but not copious.
This is a problem for the French clientele: the owner seems to prefer his American clientele and doesn’t hesitate to show his preference: very forthcoming with our American friends, he becomes distant and hardly polite with his French clients.
Good enough reason not to recommend him.

Example of menu:
- 1 calf sweetbread
- 1 grilled bass
- 2 Desserts
- 1 Rosé of Provence
total: 123 euros

Chez Rolande

Close to Anse des Flamands.
A small unpretentious Creole hut transformed into a restaurant;
Cuisine 100% Creole and it is excellent; the tables are set up in the surrounding garden
A hammock underlines, if need be, that we’re here to take our time!
The clientele is a mixture of tourists and local residents (rather a good sign!).

Example of menu :
1 Fricassée of chatrous, 1 Fricassée of lobster, 2 flamed bananas, 3 beers, 1 glass of white wine and 2 coffees: total : 60 euros

A very pleasant stop when strolling around the island

Chez Rolande
Les Flamands
Tel: 0590 27 51 42
Open every day

Bacardi

Simple restaurant in St Jean Ideal for a quick lunch Efficient and friendly service

Example of menu:
2 tarter steaks, 2 pineapple carpaccios, 1 bottle of Côtes de Provence and 2 coffees: total: 62 euros

Bacardi Café
Villa Créole - St Jean
Tel: 0590 27 68 09

Le Piment

Another simple restaurant in St Jean for a quick lunch Salades, pizzas.
Friendly but not as efficient as the preceding one and not as much choice.

Example of menu:
2 pizzas, 1 bière, 1 verre de vin, 2 cafés: total : 40 euros.

Le Piment
Route de Saline - St Jean
Tel: 0590 27 53 88

Tropical Hotel

Situated on top of a hill close to the beach of St Jean, the Topical hotel overlooks the bay. Careful, 50m of a steep enough slope to be climbed to reach the hotel…
Small and charming hotel: 20 bedrooms built around a very pleasant tropical.
Private and relaxing atmosphere; small pool.

The rooms are simple but very well decorated: air conditioning, refrigerator, TV; in the bathroom, a big comfortable shower.
Each room has a small terrace looking out on the garden or the sea (supplement).
Actually, the rooms looking out on the garden are a better choice as the others look onto the parking lot with a slight possibility of seeing a small piece of ocean… no, the garden is much more pleasant!
Outside the bedrooms, the hotel is otherwise well thought out and well decorated: bar area, sitting area.

The gallery alongside the garden and leading to the rooms is also where breakfast is served; breakfast can also be served on the terrace of the rooms. Otherwise, no catering, but the restaurants of St Jean are at a walking distance Well kept hotel. More or less friendly atmosphere depending on the people concerned

To conclude, a good way of staying in St Barth, close to Gustavia and the beautiful beach of St Jean, without getting into heavy budgets.

Tropical Hotel Bay of St Jean
Tel: 05 90 27 64 87
tropicalhotel@wanadoo.fr
web: www.tropical-hotel.com