|
|
|||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
Travel notes from Marrakech
Be careful, Moroccans on 2 wheels are dodging in and out everywhere and at a fast pace, not at all worried about brushing against you… do be careful! No deception as concerns the traditional gentleness of the Moroccans; it is unchanged, whether in the hotels, in taxis (normal) but also on chance encounters… The Koutoubia and the square Jemaâ el Fna
Later, in the evening, the cafés and cheap restaurants take possession of the square and propose fried fish, meat or fish brochettes… After a while, changes do make themselves felt: there is something artificial in the atmosphere, something is not genuine… the square has become the tourists’ nerve centre: most of the cafés are frequented by a majority of tourists (for example, the Toubkal, on the corner of the rue Riad Zitour and Kedim, is a 100% French terrace; for the Frenchman that I am, the feeling of being elsewhere is not guaranteed).
Of course, our “fake guide” has never worked in your hotel… in fact he hasn’t a clue as to what hotel you’re staying in! A piece of advice for such cases: ask him right away what hotel he is speaking about! The souks have kept their charm and it is practically unchanged: the smells and colours always as diversified (cedar wood, thuja, leather, spices..) in particular, don’t forget to visit the zones where craftsmen are at work (carpenters, wrought iron craftsmen, tinsmiths, dry cleaners, goldsmiths); each zone has its’ own particular and different atmosphere. Actually it is easy enough to find one’s way in the souks, but it is recommended, for a first time, to be accompanied by a guide (organized tour or take a real guide!) afterwards, once one has found one’s marks, there is no problem returning there individually: and it’s a lot easier to let oneself be penetrated by the sensations of the souks when not accompanied by a group of 50 people!! When returning to the souks, to avoid the ‘false’ guides, it is best to arrive by the north: Bab Doukkala, then the rue Bab Doukkala all the way to the end. Don’t hesitate to go late in the afternoon around 6pm–7pm; there are fewer people and still the same smells and colours: the ideal time for photography or video.
It is pleasant to stroll in the small streets of the old city, searching for ‘riads’ (one can visit many): their interior patios are very pleasant and rather unexpected in the midst of the old town; their porches are typical of the architecture of Marrakech; one of the handsomest and most luxurious of the city is without doubt the Villa des Orangers (6 rue Sidi Mimoun).
The brand new and luxurious “Palmeraie Golf Palace” deserves its’ title of palace and is going to be a great address for the organization of international seminars. Also north of the city, in the suburbs, is located the garden of Majorelle: a garden put together in 1924 by Jacques Majorelle, painter and botanist who had settled in Marrakech; this original and mysterious garden brings together the species of the 5 continents. The old studio of Majorelle, a surprising bright bleu, very art-deco, has been transformed into a museum of Islamic Art. Open to the public since 1947, it was purchased by Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé, and since then sold. There are many restaurants in Marrakech and one shouldn’t be afraid of going into the old town (in any case, the small taxis go there without any problem). A few interesting addresses: Douirya, Baraka, Bohème. On the Jemaâ el Fna square, one can have a quick meal at the El Waha, on the corner of the square and the rue Riad Zitoun Lakdim.
Piano bar, boutiques Fitness club: very limited, actually without interest Swimming pool in the garden with terrace-restaurant (grill) for lunch For more details concerning the hotel: Of course, Marrakech remains an entrancing city, with its maze of mysterious alleys, the Jemaä el Fna square and its changing atmosphere, its’ ramparts that the sun livens with magnificent ochre colours. But maybe Marrakech is living on a reputation that it has out-lived? As a destination, Marrakech seems to have lost the “place to be” kind of reputation that it once had; most of the “key figures” having invested in Marrakech have sold: the city lives now on its past, its image symbolized somewhat by the restaurant of Jean Lefèvre, vestige of this grand epoch. Remain the expensive hotels, too expensive for the services proposed (number of ‘stars’ to be taken with precaution…) in particular riads with high prices: but how can they be assured of being correctly filled? No investment, bad upkeep of what exists (cf. the Hivernage quarter); the questionable interest of the Palmeriaie 8/10 km from Marrakech and that has nothing left of a palm grove! For more information on Marrakech and on Morocco in general: Rent a car in Marrakech :
|
My first trip to Marrakech was in 1985, a
week was spent discovering Marrakech followed by a second week driving along the trails of Southern Morocco in a small Renault. Twenty years later, I wanted to see if I could again find the atmosphere that had so impressed me: the perfumed smells, the sounds of a vibrant city whose very colour changes as the day unfolds. And to my delight, the moment the airport door was crossed, the first contact was as magical as that kept in my memory: snow-topped mountains of the Atlas dominating the city…. 
Marrakech is now a city of a million inhabitants… yes, difficult to imagine! Actually, the town centre has not changed much: the town developed on the outskirts (for example, beyond the airport). The horse-drawn carriages, taxis (big and small) are still here waiting for you; however, the mule-drawn carts have nearly disappeared, replaced by motorbikes; omnipresent even in the narrowest alleys of the souks. 
Immerging from winter and reddened by the setting sun, the ramparts welcome us to Bab Jdid: the doors hardly crossed, I find again the ochre colours… so flamboyant, just as they were in my memory; the Koutoubia dominates this part of the town with its’ 34 meters and almost facing it, is the Mamounia, mythical hotel of Marrakech, still there with its’ imposing construction! 
A little further on, is the famous Jemaa el Fna square, so different in the morning from what it is at the end of the day: at first, I don’t note any important changes: the orange juice vendors are still around with their colourful carts, as are the spice vendors and the trinkets and baubles and other perfumes of all types; there are still the snake charmers, the monkey masters and the water carriers, the story tellers (it is really too bad that we can’t understand them!), the henna markers, the public writers sheltered underneath their umbrellas… all of this to the sound of flutes and tambourines. Surrounding the square, the same cafés offering sun filled terraces with an unimpeded view on the square - and without the disturbance of the ambling vendors. 
On the square Jemaa el Fna, numerous “guides” (but mostly fake ones) propose their services for a guided tour of the souks; these so called guides can be very “insistent”; they will put to use a variety of commercial techniques the latest one, very much in style being: A timid approach of the type “Hello, I work for your hotel, at the reception desk, don’t you recognize me..?” Won over and trustful enough to engage in conversation… too late, you won’t be able to get out of this…! 
To the north-east, you should visit the tannery quarter; it is preferable to take a guide for this visit: it is not easy to find and... not very engaging! The smell is very strong: you will be offered mint leaves for the visit and they will prove to be really useful (the “Berber gas mask”)!! It is impressive to see how hides are treated and under what conditions the workers toil: totally inhuman… how can such methods of work, still be kept in a country that sees itself as "modern". To see! 
Immediately touching the city, the Palmeraie is an area to be singled out; it is 10km to the north of Marrakech and despite its’ name hasn’t much to do with a palm grove. Indeed, it has now become a residential area (villas, hotels golf courses). Few palm trees, (too) calm… actually, not interesting to be staying there if one’s objective is to visit Marrakech; its’ only appropriate, so it seems, for the organization of congresses or other company seminars. 
The Siaha (formerly) Farah is a good price/comfort compromise; situated in the Hivernage quarter, it is close to the old town (15min on foot); taxis and horse-drawn carriages are in front of the hotel.
Big restaurant (1/2 board) with buffet; variable quality each day. Personnel friendly and attentive, but without “class”. 2 restaurants in annexes: