Travel notes - Djerba

General information

What region, at only a 2h30 flight from Paris, can offer a total change of pace, along with great beaches, an agreeable climate, modern and comfortable hotels and all for an accessible budget, better than Djerba ?

The island is linked to the continent by 2 bridges:
- a ferry assures a westerly liaison from Adjim
- more to the south, a 7 km road built on the foundations of the ancient roman road, handles the major part of the road traffic (El Kantara)

Some 500 km2, 125 km of coast, practically flat as the highest point of the island in the south-west culminates at some 50 meters above sea level. There are no rivers on the island: the only source of water is wells and a pipe line, built bringing water in from the continent. The pipe line was built along the roman causeway.

Permanent population on the island around 100 000.
A gentle way of life, serenity, are the impressions left by a stay in Djerba, whether in winter or in summer In fact, the climate of Djerba is very mild, the result of a desert climate tempered by the sea; generally, a sea breeze, soft in the morning and stronger in the late afternoon, constantly refreshes the atmosphere bringing with it the necessary amount of humidity.
However, one must beware, if the wind turns south/south-west, the temperatures can raise (rise?) sharply… (luckily rather rare!). Winters are mild, the temperature never going below 10°C, but rain, very rare in the summer (but possible), is more frequent in the winter.

In 2004, the Island disposed of 128 hotels, all grouped on the eastern side, either on the North-Eastern or South Eastern coast, where the beaches are wonderful. All of these hotels were built in what is the local style and are never higher than 2 stories; they are in perfect harmony with the landscape and in no way undermine the naturalness of the Island.
All are of modern conception, comfortable and offering every type of accommodation: hotel-clubs, clubs, amongst which a large choice of 4 star or 5 star hotels, allowing an affordable luxury stay of exceptional comfort: in fact, the quality/price ratio is difficult to find elsewhere and certainly not in France!
Tunisia and Djerba in particular is an opportunity, for those who have never experienced the pleasures of a stay in a luxury 5 star Palace hotel, to do so. And if you are accustomed to such pleasures, then it is a chance to enjoy them again!

For more information on the island of Djerba:
www.tunisietourisme.com.tn/regions/djerba.htm
www.1voyage.com/tunisie/djerba.htm
Sejours Tunisie, Djerba To organize your travel and stay in Tunisia and Djerba.

The Airport

The former airport

As soon as you’ve landed, a change of life is already palpable. The airport is situated at the extreme North-West of the Island in a nearly dessert like arid zone where the earth is coloured ochre and the vegetation practically inexistent if not for a few shrivelled up palm trees. The first impression is certainly not inviting!

The new airport

The former airport Djerba Mellita (name of a neighbouring village), small local airport, was enlarged several times to become a big international airport with a capacity in the 1980s’ of 500 000 passengers/year; its’ capacity was tripled in 1992 to handle not only the island airline traffic but that of the Zarzis tourist area. The airport then changed its’ name to become Djerba Zaris.

As a consequence of its’ rapid growth, the airport was once again saturated as of 1997 (1 800 000 passengers); in 2006, a new air-terminal was built to bring the airports’ capacity up to 4.000.000 passengers/year. However, for the much awaited real change of lifestyle, one will have to leave the airport!

In 2006, the airport received 2.425.000 passengers and recorded 21.243 plane movements; for comparison, 3.648.000 passengers and 38.000 plane movements for the airport of Tunis Carthage.

Houmt Souk

Administrative capital of the island. To the North, Houmt Souk is an invitation for an idle walk; its’ small pedestrian centre unveils a style from another time, with beautiful old houses from the beginning of the 20th century, narrow cool streets, “souks” and town squares adorned with bougainvilleas sheltering restaurants and cafés where Djerbians are passionately engaged in a non-ending game of dominions, sitting all the while before their mint tea.

A café in the center of Houmt Souk

Despite the crowds of tourists, especially on market days, the town has kept its’ authenticity and its’ very particular pace Houmt Souk has kept intact its’ “souk” quarter crossed by small narrow and busy streets, where all sorts of craftsmen can be found, even those whose craft do not especially cater to the tourist business (barbers, public letter writers, fabrics salesmen, tailors).

These small streets are often dark and covered, particularly well adapted to the hot surrounding atmosphere.

The Houmt Souk Market

The fish auction in Houmt Souk

Market days are Monday and Thursday and include fruits, vegetables, spices… however, the souks are open every day (closing in the early afternoon). If you are going to buy souvenirs in Houmt Souk, it is preferable to avoid market days; there will be fewer people and don’t forget that on market days if it is easy to find a cab from your hotel it will be more difficult to find one at the end of your shopping when everyone else is also looking for one!
And then, Houmt Souk is not the only place to shop, why not go to Midoun, close to the “hotel zone” (market on Friday)?

Bargaining

It goes without saying that bargaining is unavoidable; it is almost a pleasure that the Djerbian cannot do without! In fact the prices first given have nothing to do with “the real price of things”; they are easily three times the “normal” price: you will need to do a lot of bargaining, spend a lot of time, energy and patience to reach an acceptable price.

Houmt Souk: In the souks

Amusing at the beginning, this bargaining becomes tiring and there are moments when one dreams that souk prices be displayed and that the only bargaining be tied to quantities: what a gain of time for both the salesmen and the buyers to finally reach comparable sales results. And all the business lost because some of the tourists refuse to enter a boutique for fear they will never be able to get out of it without buying something when they are really interested only in certain products; it suffices to listen to comments made after they have returned from such outings.

Finally, a quaint system that needs to change in the best interest of all. Fortunately, outside these tourist zones, Tunisian commerce has evolved and has adapted to modern ways ( self-service); Carrefour, for example, opened a hyper-market in Tunis in 2001… one would think that this bargaining system is kept only for tourists, to please them, to fulfil their expectations of quaintness.

Riu Royal Garden Palace

Last visit on august 2006

The Riu Royal Garden: The lobby

Beautiful hotel, impressive by its’ sheer size and the richness of its’ oriental decoration it is the opposite of the Ulysses Hotel.
The reception hall underlines things: here, everything is gigantic not to say grandiose. Nothing to add except that those who appreciate architectures with human proportions could be lost and feel a lack of warmth (human that is).

For those looking for a splendid 5 star with style and a certain class this could be unforgettable.
Big rooms of course (288), very comfortable with balcony /terrace overlooking the sea (or garden), bar fridge, TV, safe, bathrobe, sitting area, air conditioning of course.

The Riu Royal Garden: The bar

Big restaurant for breakfast (buffet) and diner (buffet, cold and hot plates for the entrée, main dish served at the table, buffet desserts); international cuisine along with numerous local specialties.
Grand and comfortable bar animated by a pianist before dinner. Very big soft water pool.

The Riu Royal Garden: The outdoor swimming pool

Big white sand beach, some 200/300 meters from the pool (a small road to cross); deckchairs, beach umbrellas, free towels (beach and pool). Bar/restaurant at the pool (warm food for lunch).

The Riu Royal Garden: The swimming pool of the spa

Choose, if at the beach, the beach “restaurant”; very simple with a limited menu but it’s nicer to eat on the beach, cooled by the sea breeze.

Sports : generally, not run by the hotel and thus to be paid directly: sailing, wind sailing, water skiing, par ascending, tennis; facing the hotel (a road to cross) is a 27 hole golf course. Integrated and very nice SPA within the hotel run by the “Vital Centre” group

.

To know more about the Riu Royal Garden Palace:
www.riu.com/?hotel=XRG&lng=es?hotel=XRG&lng=es

Mövenpick Ulysse

Visited on july 2003 and november 2007.

One of the oldest hotels in Djerba. For years, the Ulysses was the reference for the traveller coming from Houmt Souk. It was the first hotel of the “Djerbian hotel zone” to appear from afar rising above the lagoon; today, it is no longer the “door” to the hotel zone, that position being now held by the Radisson SAS hotel.

Completely renovated by the Tunisian group Utic, it is now managed by the Swiss chain Mövenpick; but the simplicity of style, the modesty of the lobby and the small size of the 264 bedrooms remind this hotel is 40 years old...
It has kept the sobriety of its’ initial architecture, perfectly integrated in the environment, the "sand" colour of the buildings enhanced by the light of the setting sun, its’ hotel lobby equally sober as a result of both its’ proportions and decoration.

A big sized restaurant (Movenpick) for breakfast and dinner; buffet service, international cuisine, numerous local specialties; drinks not included.
For lunch, the Neptune, restaurant and grill (fish or meat) opens directly onto the pool and the beach; tables are on an exterior terrace or inside the air conditioned restaurant: buffet of hors d’oeuvre, table service. Lovely exterior access to the hotel.

However, facing the sea the “volumes” of the hotel are not as “comfortable”; in particular, the beach in front of the hotel is somewhat narrow.

Ulysse Mövenpick: a swimming pool of spa

Spa
Beautiful Spa, well integrated within the hotel, probably one of the best in Djerba; tasteful Moorish architecture and qualified, amiable personnel.

Within a space of 3 500m2, the Spa has two big pools (sea water) one of which extends out to the exterior of the hotel.
Well equipped Spa, numerous rooms for the various amenities going from seaweed wraps, a variety of massages and other hydrotherapy spa specialties; prices compare to other Spa centres on the island.
To be recommended without any hesitations.

More information on the Ulysses Mövenpick :
www.moevenpick-djerba.com

Palm Beach Palace Sofitel

Lovely Moorish architecture no gigantic scale to this 5* palace belonging to the Accor hotel group and recently constructed.
Efficient reception of clients (you are seated; the hotel personnel move)
Beautiful pool and big beach immediately behind.
Private beach, hotel guards are rather efficient at keeping local hawkers away; plenty of deckchairs, mattresses and parasols and no reservation is necessary even at the peak of summer season. Towels are graciously furnished; beautiful white sand beach well cleaned, descending regularly towards the sea; no rocks to worry about! Pool showers are used as they are close by.

Bedrooms
Spacious rooms and in particular:
- King size beds,
- safe,
- bar fridge,
- nice terrace overlooking the sea (or garden),
- bathroom with huge bath, double washbasins, bathrobes, hair dryer (but no shower),
- very functional and large closet space.
The rooms are clean and the upkeep is well done.

Restaurants
big restaurant for half and full board.
The restaurant is composed of 2 vast zones: interior and exterior, it is never a problem to find a table at any hour; opening hours are comfortable Buffet system for the 3 meals; regularly renewed buffets, varied cuisine, international and local, drinks included (water, beer, Tunisian wine). Barbecue in the evening.
2 Restaurants in annexe:
· The Lina, above the principal restaurant, has a marvellous view on the sea; Tunisian specialties are offered
· The Cap restaurant is between the pool and the sea Sea food specialties are on the menu

Spa
Located between the Sofitel and the neighbouring hotel club Coralia (Accor). The management is not Accor.
Pleasant pool (but not sea water). Other premises rather average; small and few private parlours for the various Spa amenities.
Good quality amenities but average as to the welcome.

Animation
Very limited, but this is not the objective of this type of hotel.
Every evening (before and after dinner) presence of a singer accompanied by a synthesizer (the quality is average); the space is not well adapted to this kind of animation.
The hotel is filled (but not full) without ever giving the impression of being crowded. There is really sufficient room for the number of guests.

VIP
Numerous VIPs frequent this hotel, including an important French government minister.

More information concerning the Sofitel:
www.sofitel.com/sofitel/fichehotel/fr/sof/resort/2788/fiche_hotel.shtml

Radisson SAS Resort & Thalasso

Last visit on november 2007

RadissonSAS: The entrance

The Radisson SAS is the first hotel of the “Djerbian hotel zone” to appear from afar rising above the lagoon just before the old Ulysse Mövenpick.

It's the former Athénée Palace fully renovated in 2006 and now managed by the scandinavian chain Radisson SAS; it belongs to the tunisian group Utic.

RadissonSAS: the swimming pool

Imposing proportions particularly for the splendid and impresive lobby all in marble.

Efficient reception of clients: you are seated in comfortable armchairs and the hotel personnel move.

Bedrooms:
All located in 2 buildings of 3 floors at right angles to the sea: many of them have a sea view (nice terrace); access to the room through a large internal patio decorated with luxuriant tropical plants.

RadissonSAS: a bedroom

Rooms are large and well decorated :
- king size bed
- lounge corner
- safe, bar, TV large screen (CRT).

RadissonSAS: the bathroom

Large bathroom all in marble with both bath and shower : pleasant and useful; separate toilets (telephone in bathroom and toilets).
Bathrobe, hairdrier.

Free internet connection in the whole hotel:: wifi (only in lobby and some rooms) or Ethernet (specific cable in each room); a laptop with ethernet plug is needed.
The connection is announced as a "fast connection"; in fact rather between 200 et 400 kbit/s (Ethernet): a little bit slow...!

"One point touch": on your phone dial, only one specific touch to claim for any problem: tested for laptop connecting problem: efficient.

Restaurants

4 restaurants :

RadissonSAS: Céramique Restaurant

- Céramique
large restaurant where the breakfast and the diner are served.
all cold or hot dishes served on buffets.
Good but not enough changes from one day to the next.
- Flamingo
spécialities from spain;
small and not very popular
- Zafferano
italian restaurant: very comfortable.
- Turquoise
close to the swimming pool and the beach; only for lunch.

RadissonSAS: the bar

RadissonSAS: the bar in the lobby

The bar

Right in the centre of the lobby... not so friendly!
no piano bar
rather limited "carte": no cocktails...

An other bar, the Zanzi Bar (sic), opens only at 9 pm.
Very good orchestra every night.

Tennis
8 splendid clay courts.

RadissonSAS: the spa reception

Thalasso

Beautiful Spa, well integrated within the hotel (same management)
Within a space of 3.000m2, the Spa has 3 big pools (sea water) one of which extends outdoor; the staff is about 70 people.

Very beautiful design based on marble and exotic wood
Well equipped Spa, numerous rooms for the various amenities
Some specialities as Thaï massages...

RadissonSAS: Thaï massage room

Is the success the undoing of Tunisian spa ?

Some wavering in the organization but kindness of people helps...

Spa customers who were not so numerous some years ago have become right now much increasing. Hotel managers must be careful and adapt their organization to this deep increasing of their customers; if not, these ones cpuld be disappointed...

More info on the Radisson SAS:
www.djerba.radissonsas.com/cs/Satellite/Page/RadissonSAS/Page/rsasHotelDescription/1118819848484/en/hotelCode--djezr/
www.odegam.fr/robinson_hotel.php

The Hasdrubal Thalasso Djerba

Visited in 2003.
Grand if not grandiose lobby in pure Moorish style The hotel was practically empty in mid July.
Not very pleasant atmosphere: maybe this could have to do with some of the consequences of the 2003 events (terrorist attack of a synagogue on the island), but this feeling of emptiness was not true of the other hotels of the same category.

A negative first impression, but this needs to be confirmed.
One could add that this hotel seems to be aging and that the upkeep leaves something to be desired (the garden for example).