Travel notes - Croatia

General information on Croatia:
www.amb-croatie.fr/croatie/index.htm   A very complete site: not to be missed.
www.1clic1planet.com/croatie.htm   General information
www.croatia.hr/home/Default.aspx   General information
www.sejoursvoyages.com/3-voyages-croatie.html Organizing a stay in Croatia.
www.casamundo.co.uk/croatia Holiday homes in Croatia.

Dubrovnik

Carte Croatie

Magnificent region, extremely popular before the outbreak of the regional conflict involving the Croats, Bosnians and Serbs.
Croatia was the first state immerging from the conflict to rebuild and equip itself with an infrastructure aimed at accommodating the most demanding tourist.

Croatia is completely ready to reveal the beauties of its' region and to exploit this economic opportunity; for the moment, prices remain at an acceptable level! It is comparable in beauty to the rocky and indented coastline of a destination such as Corsica... but the quality/price ratio is here doubled...
It's really the right time to take advantage of this !

Quality of guides: they speak French perfectly and have a passion for their country.

Perched on its' rock, surrounded by imposing ramparts lapped by the Adriatic, Dubrovnik, ancient Ragusa in Italian, is without a doubt one of the jewels of the worlds' architectural heritage...

George Bernard Shaw, during a stay in Dubrovnik in 1929, wrote:
"If you want to see heaven on earth, come to Dubrovnik..."

DubrovnikIt is really a magnificent region, perfectly rebuilt since the war and so close to France; a "must" to discover without delay!
Rocky coast: no beach
A lot of tourists, but very few Germans... the "naturist" side, in vogue during the communist era, has disappeared: most of the major hotels of that time have been left as were: new ones have been built.

Do not miss the road leading to the airport (take the direction Cavtat/Cilipi); some 7/8 km from Dubrovnik, the view of the city and its' immediate surroundings is magnificent: because of the light, this short excursion is to be done imperatively in the morning (the city will be in backlighting during the afternoon); to go there, bus n°10 (few) or taxi.

Restaurant in DubrovnikIt can be really hot in Dubrovnik: that's exactly when the small streets will be particularly appreciated and where most of the restaurants of the city can be found: simple, nice and price wise restaurants; numerous fish specialties accommodated by Croatian wine.

For example, the Antunini restaurant: a welcoming atmosphere, good food, all without pretensions; "aperitif" offered, French speaking Dubrovnik.

Avoid the restaurants located on the old port: too big, too overcrowded by tourists, too loud and too sunny !!

The ancient Raguse is a homogenous architectural whole, well kept up and fascinating to discover: don't forget to tour the city by taking the walk along the ramparts: this may sound tiring but the walk is well worth it, giving in particular original views of the city (to be avoided during the hotter hours).

All the facts on Dubrovnik:
www.tzdubrovnik.hr
www.dubrovnik-online.com

Hotel Dubrovnik Palace

Dubrovnik: Hôtel Dubrovnik PalaceBuilt on the Lapad peninsula some 5 km from the town centre.
First constructed in 1972, the hotel remained the reference for Dubrovnik.

Unfortunately, it was badly damaged between 1991 and 1994 by the bombings; purchased in 2002, it was then completely demolished and reconstructed according to new international standards, albeit totally privileging Croatia as to the building materials used as well as to the subcontracting; it was inaugurated in 2004.
Perfectly equipped for conventions with a capacity of up to 1000 people.

Dubrovnik: sunset seen from the Dubrovnik PalaceFirst contact not very engaging: a too massif and heavy entrance way: arrival by the 9th floor: the bedrooms are below... between the reception level and the sea.

Magnificent view from all sides of th hotel and in particular from all the bedrooms.

320 comfortable bedrooms (of which 20 suites), bar, TV, safe, hairdryer, bathrobes, plenty of closets, beautiful terrace; all the bedrooms are oriented north/west and thus offer magnificent sunsets... don't forget your camera !

If possible, avoid the 6th floor bedrooms (immediately under the restaurant located on the 7th floor): chair noises are constant during meal times and in particular during breakfast (which starts at 6: 30 am...); curiously the sounds are louder that in the restaurant itself !

Direct transportation towards the centre of Dubrovnik on bus line n°4:
Dubrovnik (town centre/Pile) --> Hotel: end of the line=impossible to miss the stop.
cost: 8 kunas one way (tickets sold at the reception of the hotel and also on Pile Square).
You can purchase also the tickets on the bus but the price is 10 kunas and the driver doesn't have change.
1 euro=7.50 kunas: a bus ticket thus costs about 1 euro.

Dubrovnik Palace: the beachThere is no beach, cement walkways line the shore equipped with chairs for those who wish to sunbath; a ladder allows access to the sea for the more "intrepid" (to be used only when the sea is calm to avoid being knocked on the rocks.

Several swimming polls of different size (but only fresh water).

The big pool has a bar directly accessible without getting out of the water. Apart and separated by a netting, a particular zone was initially reserved for naturists... but this clientele has practically disappeared.

This zone disposes of its own pool and bar; it's now used for conventions or to organize romantic diners indeed for clients !

A "grill" restaurant by the shore is open at noon and in the evening (Taverna): very nice for a light lunch in the shade of the pergolas.

Dubrovnik Palace: the restaurantThe big restaurant Elafiti is on the 7th floor: basic service in form of buffets (for boarders): even with this buffet , the quality of the food is good. One slight reproach: the proposed buffet dishes do not vary very often; possibility of a menu.

Very large restaurant, coldly decorated and thus not conducive to a welcoming atmosphere, the air-conditioning only adds to the coldness ! Luckily one can be seated on a terrace overlooking the sea (very nice): therefore, arrive early (or late) to be seated on the terrace much more attractive than the inside.
The service is efficient and the waiters considerate.

Dubrovnik Palace: the swimming poolThe bar is on the reception level: big, impersonal and without interest except for the magnificent view one has from this level.

To have a drink, choose without hesitating the pool bar (1st level): especially in the evening, it is a great place to have & drink sitting between the pool and the sea, cooled by soft breezes...

However, there is no local "aperitif": if you wish to have a "pastis" be precise on how you want it should be served if you don't want to drink it in a glass of liqueur without water or ice ! (and if you order a "Ricard", say "Richard").

Dubrovnik Palace: from the fitness clubOn the last floor (9th), there is a magnificent spa: very comfortable, intimate parlors, big pool (the biggest of the hotel) with a fantastic view overlloking the bay.
In every bedroom a bathrobe is on hand so that one can walk to the spa.

Several internet connections are available in the convention centre: state of the art office equipment available only when no cenvention is underway.

Globally, a comfortable and modern hotel to be recommended without hesitation to those looking for top class accommodation at an affordable price.

Consult the hotel website for more information:
www.dubrovnikpalace.hr/home.aspx?PageID=2

Korcula

KorculaA 3hrs boat outing using the regular ferry connecting Dubrovnik/Split.

On one of the biggest islands of the Dalmatian coast; the town of Korcula is replica of Dubrovnik on a smaller scale. It is truly a magnificent sight. The island is separated from the continent by an isthmus of 1270m.
The trip back to Dubrovnik can thus be made by road which allows one to see the region from a different perspective; in particular, local wine tasting (very average wine, but very strong, 13 to 15°) and a stop at Ston (ancient salt marshes).
This should turn out to be a very complete and interesting day.

More info on Korcula :
www.korculainfo.com

Mljet

Excursion to the Natural Reserve of the Island of Mljet on a hydroplane (1 hr both ways): not that pleasant of a way to discover an island and at the end of the day a trip of average interest.
In my opinion, it’s better to choose a trip on a traditional wooden boat (caïque) to the Elafites Islands, not as far away, but just as interesting; the whole point of the trip is not to visit an island but to navigate among all the islands and enjoy the superb scenery

More info on Mljet :
www.np-mljet.hr/about national park.html

Kotor (Montenegro)

KotorExcursion to the "Mouth of Kotor" situated in Serbia Montenegro, the largest "fjord" of the whole Mediterranean! The site is splendid and very original, without speaking of the old town of Kotor, so typical and curiously nestled on the inside of its’ ramparts.
After Kotor, the road leads up the mountains, unveiling as one proceeds, a magnificent view on all of Kotor.
Not to be missed.

For more info :
www.1clic1planet.com/yougoslavie.html
www.historychannel.com/classroom/unesco/kotor.html 

Mostar (Bosnia)

MostarEven for those who will limit their trip to Dubrovnik and its’ immediate surroundings, it is an absolute must; to go all the way to Mostar (120 km).
Bosnia, a Muslim country, also has a community of Croats (Catholics) and Serbs (Orthodox)

In Mostar, these 3 communities are about equal in size. They are having a hard time recovering from the terrible war which threw these communities against one another; the consequences of these tragic days are still numerous, impressive and palpable.

Of course, the old bridge has recently been rebuilt and symbolizes the hope of reconciliation between the communities but the conflict is too recent, families have gone through too much, have been too divided for the wounds to be healed all that quickly. It will take much good will, thought and time to forget the atrocities all have lived through.

Thus, one should go to Mostar if only to feel concretely what the conflict was about: it is very moving to hear local Bosnian guides give their vision of the events and state their faith in the future.
Of course there are a lot of people….but it is easy enough to leave the "tourist street" (Brace Fejica), walk east onto the big street of Mostar (M.Titta) and find oneself alone.

For more information on Mostar, Bosnia, the war:
www.1clic1planet.com/bosnie%20herzegovine.htm  Info on Bosnia
www.tlfq.ulaval.ca/axl/europe/bosnieherzinf.htm  More on Bosnia
www.unesco.org/culture/heritage/tangible/bosnia/html_eng/monument.shtml  Mostar presented by UNESCO (English)
http://guernica.adpe.free.fr/mostardanslaguerre.htm  More info, especially on the war.
www.tlfq.ulaval.ca/axl/europe/bosnieherzday.htm  All on the Daytona agreements.